First let me say: Good luck Broad Street Runners! I hope everyone has a fun and safe race. If you're one of the folks unsure if you can do it, how about this for inspiration - I just crossed a country the size of Texas on my bicycle!

Yes, I made my goal - EFI in Botswana. Here's how the days developed since my last entry:

Mon. 4/26 148 K to a bush camp. Rode very hard in the a.m. with fellow American Stephanie Falkenstein (Like in most other sports, you perform so much better when you're with someone of higher skill than you). I can only push for so long though at this stage so I slowed a bit after lunch, let Steph leave me. Still done before 3 p.m., though.

Tues. 4/27 140 K. Again rode hard with a fellow American, Brian Rogers of Austin, Texas. We were humming along so well with the tailwind that he wanted to skip the lunch truck and get in to the restort in Ghanzi so I let him leave me. After lunch I floored it pretty well and got to the end of the race (140 K mark) at 1:06 p.m., a personal best. Beat the pants off one rider who left the same time as Brian and me and who has finished well ahead of me every day since I have been here. (I also beat that rider another time but two is when you know you're legit.)

Also, people pass each other all day long as one person stops, gets back on the road and passes people who passed him/her. This day only the racers (45k an hour MFs) and 3 other riders passed me. No one else who started after me passed me and I am very proud of that.

But here's the capper - Wed., 4/28 we were told if we had a good tailwind and it wasn't too hot we would try to push it to the border to Namibia. That was 180 K - 200 K depending on which map you read.

I was slightly freaked out but I'm shrugging at a lot of things these days. So I set off at 7 a.m. this day and finished 11 hours later (with stops) 211 K down the road and in Namibia. Bye Bye Botswana!

I did it, Philly. Crossed Botswana without getting on the truck. And I didn't have one moment of misery in that entire 211 K. Listened to Philly Dave's CD player before lunch, then waited for the doctors from Alabama, Traci Lynne and John Brewer, and rode with them and tour director Henry Gold the rest of the day.

The race ended 25 K before the border. The docs and I got there at 4:47 p.m., Henry had gotten there slightly ahead of us. When the three of us arrived at that mark Henry said everyone else had crossed the border and he didn't know if we'd make it. John, who has done EFI of the entire trip, was not getting on the truck to ride over the border to join everyone else. Neither were Traci or I. So Henry said, OK, we have to hoof it to the border and pray it stays open till six.

Hoof it after 10 hours? I was stressing a little but you adapt in Africa. So we did the last 25 K in 45 minutes. Wild. Border didn't close till midnight. How's that for drama?

Today was an easy day of 110 K to this town. My day was even easier because I rewarded myself with a motor-vehicle ride :)

We have two more days to Windhoek so I'll be back on for them and then we have a rest day. Talk to you then. Be well Philly and please comment here and/or e-mail me.

I have seen wild elephants.

I have ridden an African elephant.

I have fed an African elephant.

I am the Elephant Woman! - wait, that doesn't sound right.

Hello all. Had a spectacular time in Zambia, the last full day capped by a soaking visit to Vic Falls and a bumpy ride on a young elephant at a game reserve.

We could see Vic Falls' enormous spray from 10 kilometers outside Livingstone. The closer we got, the more electric the air was. Absolutely staggering how thunderous that Zambezi River sounds spilling into the gorge below. There is a walkway in front of the falls that I crossed with a few fellow cyclsists, as most people do. That experience is mostly one of feel and sensation because it's hard to look directly at the falls from that walkway. The spray is refreshing, laughter-inducing, blinding... phenomenal. Impossible to take pictures from that vantage point unless the camera is waterproof. I did take pictures from the point of the river right before the surface drops off. Quite amazing the contrasting serenity from up there.

Got lots of pics from various sides of the falls and will share them as soon as I get them put on CD. (My digital camare died in an unrelated water tragedy. And speaking of tragedies, I have lost my Ipod. Don't know how or where exactly. But I persevere.)

About an hour after visiting the falls (you dry VERY quickly in Africa), I took a short ride with fellow Americans Traci Lynne Brewer, her husband John (collectively known as "the doctors") and Philly Dave to an elephant reserve for an elephant ride. (Photos in the next entry.)

I did a lot of reading on elephants in Botswana before I left home, so I jumped at the opportunity to interact with some up close.

Visit began with cool drinks (nice) and a lecture on elephant etiquette (Boring! I was ready to ride!).

First impression, I am sure not a surprise to you, is that they are HUGE! But we all got over our intimidation quickly and enjoyed the hourlong ride through the reserve.

Now this reserve has both the touring elephants and wild elephants. The tour leader walks on the ground in front of the elephant-cade armed with a shotgun in case we encounter a rogue elephant and trouble develops. Or in case one of our own elephants goes insane. Luckily none of that happened.

We did see scores of trees the elephants had knocked over, roots and all, to get at the greenery up top. (I saw all about that from home on the Discovery Channel. Applied knowledge.)

My fellow Americans also saw a croc scurry into the river as the elephant-cade approached. I missed that.

All during the ride the elephants would rub each other or bump each other. When we left, a few did some elephant hemming and hawing. When asked why, the director said they were sad that we were leaving two of the elephants behind.

During the ride Morula's driver Christopher dropped something and Morula picked it up with his trunk, then fished around where he knows Christopher keeps the bag of treats. So Dave dropped his camera a few times on the grass and Morula dutifully picked it up to get more food.

When we arrived back at the start our elephants followed a voice command to kneel and we each fed our elephants. (Two passengers per elephant, plus a driver). Morula was delightful but I'd like to forget that sensation of touching his big, wet tongue.

Allow me please one digression to give you all a feel for what it's like being a Tour d'Afriquer.

After the elephant feedings, all of us tourists and reserve staff gathered back at the outdoor table for snacks while the videographer prepared to show us the tape he made in case we wanted to buy it. There were 8 total tourists - us four cyclists and 4 normal-mannered, not-living-in-the-bush, always-hungry folks.

Two trays of snacks - cheese, bread, carrots, wings, etc.) were placed in front of us, anti-bug cloths on top of them. The four normals chatted politely on one side of the table. The four cyclists quietly eyed the trays like cheetah ready to pounce an impala.

The cloths were removed. The normals continued chatting, barely glancing at the food. The cyclsits moved in swiftly and efficiently. Some sense of civility did prevent us from snatching up every morsel.

The normals raised eyebrows. In between exhanges they did finally reach in and pick up a few morsels.

When the tour director said the video was ready and asked us to walk over the normals turned away from the food with disinterest.

'Friques never abandon food. We packed our saucers with everything on those trays including the greenery probably meant for decorating. While we were watching the video Traci Lynne paused in her eating to laugh at something. Big Dave tapped her on the shoulder and asked "are you going to finish that?" "Yes!" TL snapped.

Cracked me up.

OK. So we left Livingstone Tuesday and cycled 71 K to the ferry turnoff to go to Botswana. I rode with Texas Brian that day, finishing the 71 K in 3 hours, 5 minutes. We made a left turn and cycled 3 K to the ferry and after crossing into Botswana, everyone rode together another 8 K to camp. So 81 K total that day.

Wednesday 150 K on road from Kazangula toward Nata. Thursday 159 K total, into Nata and just beyond to the camp site. (At 65 K outide Maun I rode up on a few fellows cyclists scoping elephants in the bush a few meters ahead. As we stayed quiet, elephants emerged from behind trees and quietly crossed the road to get to the water hole on the other side. PHE-nomenal!)

Friday 167 K toward Maun. Saturday 148 K total to Maun and our campsite, Sadia Hotel.

This was my first stretch of complete cycling - no getting on the truck at any time. Take a look on a map of Botswana and check that out! Livingstone, Zambia to Maun, Botswana on my Intrepid.

My goal is to do EFI (Every F------ Inch, as the 'Friques say) in Botswana. Roads are pretty flat here and daily distances aren't too obscene. Wish me luck. We have six days to Windhoek, Namibia.

Be well, Philly. I miss you.

Here are pictures (CLICK FOR MORE!) from the road to Nata, Botswana. We were about 65k outside Nata. That was Friday the 23rd.

The cyclist in the first picture is Dave Atley of Canada. He took the other pictures.

It was an hour-long ride through the the reserve, which has wild elephants (note the second one in the picture below), antelopes, crocs down by the Zambezi river and other wildlife.

Three of the other riders in my group actually saw a croc slip into the river as the elephant troupe approached...

The one below is before the elephant ride, when we first met the elephants. With me is Morula, named for an african fruit. Morula was orphaned in the wild and brought to this reserve. He is 15.

To feed the elephants we said "trunk up" and inserted the pellets.

Hello all. Thank you so much for all of the advice and words of encouragement. I love hearing about everyone's spring training so keep them coming.

Short stretch this past week. We Left Lusaka Friday assigned 160k. I cycled 93k total, 78k to the lunch truck, then another 15k until it came by after feeding the last people to get to lunch. Rained lightly in the morning (I like getting wet and muddy).

Saturday I did a half-day of 80. Total assigned that day was 160 but it was pushed to 170 because that's where the best camp could be found.

Sunday I took the lead truck into town to see Livingstone (named for the legendary British explorer) but most stuff was closed.

Distances are getting obscenely long because roads are flat most of the time. Long hours are on the bike are killing me mentally though.

Today we have off so I am about to go see one of the Seven Wonders of the World (Victoria Falls), then I am going elephant riding! Woo hoo!

Went on a dinner cruise on the Zambezi River last night and saw the Falls at a distance of about 6k (3.5 miles) The spray alone from the Falls is magnificient. Can't wait to see it in all its glory.

Tomrrow a very short distance of 57k to a ferry that will take us over to Botswana. Can't wait. There is a stretch there where we might have to cycle together because the elephants herds are all over the road. How cool.

Be well, Philly.

Hey gang, here are the latest photos from the road. (Click on "CLICK FOR MORE" to pull up the page...)

Here is a photo of the Luangwa River, separating Mozambique and Zambia. You're looking across to Mozambique from the Zambia side:

Here's a pic of some fellow cyclists taking a break:

And here are (L to R) Sandra Simon of Austria, me, and Stephnie Falkenstein of NYC. Sandra is ranked 7th in the world in mountian biking and is training for the 2008 Olympics!

Woo, did I have a nice treat yesterday when I cycled in to this city, the capital of my fourth nation here in Africa.

We were assigned to do 110 K. We all had to be at the 90 K point by 12:15 because we needed to ride in to the city together to later attend a recption in our honor.

I reached a police checkpoint 6 K outside the city at 11:15. The last rider in our group, a Canadian named Frank, caught up with me at about 5 K from the airport and as we rode together chatting we saw some cyclists approaching us from the city. You speak to pretty much everyone you pass on the road here, but cyclsits especially. So Frank and I said hello as they passed, then resumed chatting.

Well the seven or so young men turned around and were riding alongside us seconds later. The leader told me his name was Clement and they were members of the Zambian National cycling team. He said they had recieved all the 'Friquers as they entered the city. Then as the flow decreased, they asked tour director Henry, was that all of us? Henry said no, there was one more lady (forgetting about poor Frank) still not in. So the Zambia cycling team said "Oh, we must go get her."

So I had to endure an escort about another 12 K from seven athletic, delightful young men. Torturous!

OK, so my performance since Lilongwe?

Saturday out of Lilongwe we crossed into Zambia. Distance was 145 K.

Easter Sunday we cycled 150 K to a bush camp.

Monday the assigned distance was 190 K. Turned out to be 193. Almost 300 K the two previous days made 190 too daunting. I rode the lead truck and played Scrabble with fellow American Brian.

Tuesday was 120 K, lots of climbs and pretty hilly. Philly Dave was wiped out from the previous day's 193 so he biked slow with me this day. Very cool. I prefer cycling with company.

Wednesday, we were told, would be 110. Our hotel is just north of downtown so it was more like 114.

Today is a day off and we are all enjoyng Lusaka. Actual shopping centers here. ATMs that take our cards! Heinz ketchup on restaurant tables.

Tomorrow we resume cycling and cycle for three days to glorious Victoria Falls. Water levels are too high for white-water rafting or barrell jumping or whatever the hell other insane stuff they do there. Darn. But I understand we can go canoeing in a calm section.

Cycling distances this week are enough insanity for me anyway. The day we arrive in Vic Falls we are scheduled for 188 K. Pray for a sister. I'll let you know how much I do and how early I had to get up to make it by nightfall.

Hope everyone is well. Keep e-mailing me and commenting here. I appreciate it very much.

Here are the latest photos from the road. (Click on "CLICK FOR MORE" to pull up the page...)

Below is a small contingent of Malawian children at camp Wednesday one stop before Lilongwe. As soon as the trucks pull in, the crowds gather EVERYWHERE we go. Sometimes the crowds stay even after it's too dark to see anything and we have all retired to our tents. Some of the kids are genuinely hungry or desperate for any little trinket but most of those assembled are just gawkers. It's so bizarre.

Here's Joe Matinson, me, Edwina Matinson and Tracy Lynne Brewer swigging soda at a roadside general store last Wednesday (4/7) about 100 k into our 125 k day:

This is a wider view of that same roadside store:

Here's fellow Philadelphian David Sylvester handing out cookies to kids at the same store. Kids eye him and follow him like he's the jolly green giant.

If you haven't seen them yet, here are the earlier pictures I sent.

Hello everyone! We completed our fourth consecutve ride day today and have a rest day tomorrow, Good Friday.

Thank you for all of the e-mails of support and suggested names for my ride. Ones I like the best are "Intrepid" and "Marine." Marine has several referrence points: 1) in support of our defenders at home and abroad; 2) the color of my bike, light blue, has a marine feel to it; and 3) my other major physical accomplishment was finishing the Marine Corps Marathon last October. If anyone has other suggestions though that may be Philly-inspired I'd love to hear them. The tour is dominated by Canadians and they wear their pride on their sleeves, their ankles (socks), their chairs and anywhere else they can plaster a big red maple leaf.

OK, riding update. First I need to make a correction. Total distance I rode up to March 27 was was 562, not 443. I had omitted a day. I'll give a total daily count at the end of this report.

The day we left Iringa, Tanzania, 3/30, I rode the full 101k.

Wednesday, 3/31, a full day of 135. Cloudy, misty, then hot. Butt blisters-turned-sores, hurt like hell. Distance was supposed to be 120 but the racers were making such good time with the tailwinds that course was extended. Isn't that great?

Thursday, 4/1, rode full 92k to Mbeya, Tanzania. Distance, we were told, would be 120 again but as a nice April Fool's treat, we camped at the very nice Stockholm Hotel at 92k. Really tough climbing that day. I was last to finish (about 3:30 p.m.)

Friday, 4/2, I did not cycle. Rode the truck as we crossed into Malawi. Went to the market with the crew to buy food for the group.

Saturday, 4/2, rode 82k of 130. Humid, windy at times. Rode 70k to the lunch truck, then let the truck pick me up as it was coming by to head to camp.

Sunday, 4/3, Rest day for all in Chitimba. Got my hair rebraided for the equivalent of $3 (hear that, Rena? three bucks!)

Weekly total: 410k

Monday, 4/5, Chitimba toward Mzuzu. 71k to the lunch truck. First 12k were along Lake Malawi, then we began the climb from hell. Ascended to 1500 meters above sea level. It took me and the three Canadians I rode with 3 hours to do the first 26k (with stops)

Tuesday, 4/6, rode the full 118k. Rained as we left camp for about 40 minutes. Morning had three really tough climbs. Even the racers complained when they got to the lunch truck (and they usually ride straight through). After lunch much better. Beautiful forestry in the a.m.

Wednesday, 4/7, rode full 125 getting closer to Lilongwe. Light rain again first hour or so, then windy but fine. Great course. Flat mostly, fun curves. Beautiful terrain.

Thursday, 4/8, rode just 61k to the lunch truck, then got on. Took me till close to 11 to get there. (I leave between 6:50 and 7 every day). Tough wind and some tough climbs. Knees killing me.

Good Friday: Rest day for all.

One thing I should clear up also - The tour was organized loosely as 10 days on the bike, two days off, 10 days on, etc. But it's been working more like 5 days on, 1 day off. Longest stretch has been 7 days on the tour. And when even the leisure riders in the back like me get done by 2:30 p.m. heading into a rest day, it's like having 1 3/4 off.

Back on the road Saturday toward Zambia border.

So out of 18 cycling days since I have been here, I have cycled 16 of them, 7 full days, 972k total. Woo-hoo! (Incidentally, is somebody taping "The Simpsons" for me while I am away?)

Some days, I look at this as my 7 a.m.-to-3 p.m. job in which I want/need to be fairly efficient. Other days I peace out, listen to the Ipod, stop a lot. Happening upon a cookie break or soda stop that other riders are having along the way is great. It brings us all back together because the cycling itself is so isolating. No two people cycle at the same speed so you are out on the road a lot by yourself. But don't worry. I am safe. Through many towns we have police escorts. We are out on the main highway (picture I-95 between Philly and Maryland) and there is always someone behind me.

Keep those tips coming. A friend sent me some wet-weather cycling info. Very helpful.

And to all of you who say how proud you are of what I am doing, please think about this: When I see the African women walking the roadways carrying their babies on their backs and 20-pound sacks of rice on their heads, or men pushing their bicycles up the hill as it is loaded down with wood or grain or whatever, I think that every person at home who kills him- or herself providing for family but laments not having the time to work out should give him/herself a a serious pat on the back.

I also think one other thing quite a lot: Being away from home for two full months is no big deal any more. The newspaper will still be there when I get back. My house will be there. My family and friends. (One of you will tape "The Simpsons" for me, right?) So why the hell not be here in Africa?

I see that the U.S., the center of my universe for 34 years, is but a speck in many respects. There is so much to see. For me, now, it's Africa. For one of the Canadians leaving the tour today, it's Antarctica in a few months. (Can you stand it?) I hope you all take whatever trip or job risk or whatever that creeps up in front of you or has been nagging at you or frankly you've been quick to dismiss as crazy or unaffordable before now. Several of the people here quit their jobs to do this. Several tell me they will be broke when they get home. They don't care. Interesting.

Happy Easter and Passover.